67King

I've had this truck for about 3 weeks. It is bone stock. Got it to tow some of my cars, as well as serve as a daily driver. Since I got it, it seemed to smoke under heavy load a bit more than I would have expected, but I'm pretty new to diesels. It has seemed to have smoked under lighter load over the past few days, but I haven't been so sure. I've also thought it felt a little low on power, but again, I haven't been so sure. I have stalled it a couple of times, which really shouldn't happen with this kind of torque. Haven't had the truck that long, and don't really beat on it.

However, yesterday morning, I backed it up teh driveway, went to leave, and it stalled again. I know I let the clutch out relatively slowly, and gave it gas. This thing shouldn't stall, and I've owned a dozen manuals, so I'm not a newbie to it. Anyway, I restarted, and the MIL/CEL was on (not sure what Dodge calls them, I'm used to the Malfunction Indicator Lamp nomenclature). Drove it into work, and it was definately down on power, and definately smoking under moderate load (i.e. while accelerating mildly). Coming home, it was the same way, until I pulled into the subdivision. It is pretty hilly here. When I went up the first steep hill, it almost didn't make it. HEAVY smoke, it seemed a little lighter than the typical sooty black. It starting rattling like holy Hell, sounded similar to valve clatter, or detonation from a very overheated engine. Sound went away when not under load. Happened with every hill. Truck is basically not drivabale right now.

So the only thing I have found that may be applicable here is that there is a recall for a PCM reflash. Anything else I have found on a search seems to be from folks with modified trucks. I would like to eventually do an EGR delete, I'm not sure what all else is done (read something about a PDF, but have no clue what that is). The only motivation I would have for modifying this truck would be fuel economy (okay, and simplicity/reliability), but it isn't going to happen in the immediate future. Unless it is inexpensive. And I'm assuming that means a piggyback, and I'm assuming that isn't inexpensive.

Truck has 70,000 miles. Unfortunately I do not have an owners manual. I've read somethiing about a water seperator and fuel filter. But I don't know where they are. Are those things I should try that may help (I'm new to diesels here) before I have it towed in? If so, can y'all help tell me where to find at least the separator? Do basic places like Pep Boys carry fuel filters, or are they some sort of dealer only item?

This may or may not be pertinent, but I fiigured I'd mention it. I haven't taken a car to have work done on it other than warranty work in probably 15 years. I used to do engine development for Ford (all Modular stuff, last thing was very early work on the new 5.0). Restored cars, rebuilt engines, crewed for amateur race teams, etc. So I'm not an idiot when it comes to engines, in general. I just have ZERO experience with diesels. Unfortunately, my only extra car right now is a track car, and I can't put my kids in it. I've got an event in two weeks, have some work to do on the track car before then, and really need to get the truck going soon (to tow it there - it is too brutal to drive the four hours), ohterwise, I'd never consider taking it to a dealer. But time is just not on my side here.

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

conrad

67king welcom to the fourrium.. I would start looking at some simple things like the air filter to see if it is pluged.. Then pull off the input pipe to the turbo from air filter to see if the turbo will spin freely by hand.. Then go over to the intake on the engine. On the intake horn as they call it there is a little motor that controlls a throttle valve.. It looks like a electronic throttle controll on a gas engine remove the intake pipe frome the throttle valve and check too see if the valve is closed. If it is this will act like a positive air shutoff valve and starve the engine of air and cause smoking while partially closed and heavy greay smoke as the engine loads up with fuel. While your on this side of the engine the fuel filter is the black canister just behind the intake.. There is a white valve on the bottom of it to drain the watter out of the filter. or change the filter.. There is many things to check and there many smart people who will help..One of the best things is to delete the dpf and block the egr and have most of these problems go away. and your oil stays way cleaner...

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2008 INFERNO RED, S&B STAGE 2 CAI, TURBO TO MUFFLER DELETE, SMARTY JR ME, V-LED HID KIT, LED INTERIOR \ EXTERIOR LIGHTS , STOCK TIRE, 10.2L/100km

Polaraco

You say it's bone stock, but it belches smoke? You have a DPF which is supposed to prevent that. Are you sure it has the stock exhaust?

I agree with Conrad. . . Spend a day and do a complete service, but I suspect that is not the issue.

You may be suffering from several problems at once. Smoking allot with the DPF is real bad. Could be the DPF is clogged. If that's the case, it needs to come out and be cleaned or pitched. We all here will tell you to heave it.

Heavy smoke could be coming from a dirty MAP sensor. That's a maintenance item that Chrysler doesn't do. It could be faulty too. That is located behind the EGR valve

Welcome!

67King

Thanks for the tips. If the PDF is the part of the exhaust that has the catalytic converters, yes, they are there. The truck has smoked from day 1.

When I got home yesterday, the intercooler was cool, but the turbine housing was hot, which leads me to believe it was at least trying to compress air, but I suppose it could have been radiated heat from the commute home (~20 miles).

Under heavy load, the smoke has always been your typical black, sooty, diesel smoke. Yesterday when it was really struggling, it more brown, maybe with a little blueish color in there, too. Definatley not as black as you often see. Is this typical of a very rich diesel? Sorry, just way too much time messing with gasoline engines.

We've got a huge storm system sitting on top of us, now. I'd rather work on the truck outside than move around the toys in the garage. I'll get under the hood and poke around. Local parts place had no fuel filters, but my best guess now is that the ETB may be sticking shut, based on conrad's comments.

On the EGR......I'd inferred the whole time that I'd need a piggyback, but I also assumed it would be coupled with an ETB delete (throttling a diesel is just freakin' wrong!). Looks like I can just unplug it, and block it off for a quicker solution, though. Do the EGT delete resistors prevent the PCM from throwing codes?

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

kmkdiesel

sounds like your dpf has cracked, so this might be a good time to do the deletes or take it to the dealer to get it warrentied

Polaraco

I think what he wants to say is the EGR valve may be stuck open. The closed EGR valve is desired on these. We disconnect them to improve mileage. Then it stays closed. If it's open, it's taking raw exhaust and recycling it back to the intake. You are recycling soot. That's why I suggested the MAP sensor. You can remove it and clean it with some breake clean. It's a common cause of allot of smoke.

Just so you know, there are three Cats under there. The first one is the primary Catalytic Converter. The second one is under the truck which is NOX converter. That on is right in front of that big bastard, which is the Diesel Particle Filter (DPF) Thay are prone to clogging.

The brown smoke you saw it probably the DPF regenerating, which is a porcess of cleaning it. The computer injects extra fuel and raises the exhaust temps up to 1200 degrees. This is done as needed or on a timer. Which ever comes first. That means the regen system is working. But you must have a hell of allot of crap in there to see it.

I might suggest you get a few cans of "Sea Foam", you can get that at Wal_Mart. Run them through the intake to clean out some of the soot. Don't flood the engine, just enough to change the engine speed. That will clean allot of passages. I suggest several cans.

If you take the EGR off, look in the air horn and see if it's all jammed up. If it is, you will have to get new gaskets and remove it. You may have to go so far as to remove the intake manifold and clean it also.

Start with disconnecting the EGR valve for a while. Live with the engine light. Between the Sea Foam and the lack of the EGR, the intake will clean itself in time. Several treatments of sea foam may be needed.

There's a thread on disconnecting the EGR somewhere. Do a search. I think it's a sticky.

What is your fuel mileage like?

You can loosen the flange between the down pipe and NOX to see if your power comes back. You'll be letting out all the back pressure. Diesels hate that. You still need to get rid of the smoking problem though.

There's allot of things to be done. . . . You don't have any check engine lights?

67King

Had a check engine light for one drive cycle yesterday. That's been it. I couldn't believe that the truck wasn't able to get out of its own way, and still had no codes.

The brown smoke was like a freakin' mosquito fogger. It was when the truck wouldn't get out of its own way. There was also that strange rattling sound. Sounded like a coffee can full of marbles. That's making me scratch my head, too. I guess the smoke I had been seeing under moderate load when it wasn't that bad makes sense about it cleaning the PDF.

I've got a can of seafoam from a car I used to have. Direct injection, you needed it to clean the valves from oil deposits from the CCV system. But I introduced it through a hose on the intake due to the vacuurm. Will I enough venturi affect to pull it in, or do I need to find a way to let it feed via gravity?

Saw the thread after my first post on the EGR delete. I had been planning on keeping the truck relatively stock, because from my experience, modifed vehicles don't make the most reliable daily drivers, ESPECIALLY turbocharged ones. So I didn't want to tempt myself.

Raises EGT to 1200 degrees. Wow, I did not relaize diesels ran so cool.

Mileage on the first tank was about 15, but I had hauled around some gravel, stone, and topsoil a few times doing some landscaping. Second tank was 16. Probably more of a "city" cycle than a highway one. I've not had it on the raod, yet.

Front is just about through here. I'm about to dig in.

Again, many thanks for the help!

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

diggerdave

if yur map is dirty in a stock truck you should still not see smoke steve,,it sure will make the truck run like shit though,,i tryed cleaning mine along time ago and well what a waste of time ,,cummins sells them for 60 bucks..theres 2 of the same sensors on the engine,,the crank case sensor and the map...

i would say theres something very wrong and if you have a warrenty ,,take it in and get it fixed or do the lemon law...

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07.5 2500,custom hOtRoD18 bumpers,arp studs,xrt,ad150,arson jr.custom hood,grille,all deletes,shibby from ic to grid heater,webasto,carli suspension,m/t rims and trail grapplers 35\",led lights,mbrp 5\" miters,kenwood nav,bd intercooler,lubed by amsoil,sponsord by mbrp..thanks ct performance,shibby,rsd,vengeance,nhrda member

inthenorth6.7

cummins sells them for 60 bucks.

the dealer quoted me $175! bit 'o mark-up!

the truck has 70,000mi idk if he still has warranty? he obviously bought it 2nd hand, so would have had to purchase extended then. i would check with dealer and see what the truck has been in for in the past.

"And a whole bunch of cars y'all probably don't care about" oh, and i do care about your cars, you should put them in your sig.

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2007,6.7,diamondback cover,the stock parts looked a little rusty so i replaced them,tbe with MBRP filter back, egr and egr cooler delete,black maxx, Lorenz 2.25., BF Xenon HID's, moto metal 961's wrapped in 35" general grabbers

67King

Well, this does not look especially good. Good news is teh ETB plate move freely. Truck has 70K, out of warranty. Funny, I looked for months for a 5.9 that met my requirements because of the emissions stuff, but had some friends convince me this was no big deal! Ah, well.

Updated sig, per request as well.

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

kmkdiesel

the emmisions should be warrentied for a while, i would have to check the owners manual to see how long, but I do believe that is the longest warrenty on the truck, something to do with federal law, but i could be wrong on that. Also if the truck has smoked from day one then, there is something wrong with the emmissions more then likely, or there could possibly be a chip on the truck or a downloader on it that the previous owner did not remove. The emissions will keep a stock truck from not smoking, but if programmers have been added they will smoke.

kmkdiesel

your turbo is going to be all sooted up too, if your intake looks like that, you might wanna pull it off and clean it up real good then delete the egr on your truck so this problem doesnt happen again, that is the worst thing about the egr is all the soot that gets put back in your motor and it builds up bad

67King

No, you are right. Emissions related stuff has a longer warranty. I forget how long, though. I'm afraid it may be 70K miles (truck has slightly over).

Can somebody tell me how to introduce Seafoam into the engine? There's a sensor, I'm assuming some sort of pressure sensor, in the throttle body. Can I pull that and put it in there? I didn't see anything in a search.

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

kmkdiesel

one part says 50k miles and then it says 80k miles but you would have to read into it more to see if you are still covered

04SSHD

That's a lot of soot! I'd do the deletes and be done with it!

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Polaraco

Remember Diggy, these trucks are like fingerprints. Each one reacts different. You can't discount the MAP. Remember, these guys are putting switches in to make the trucks smoke. Looking at that intake horn, the sea Foam will do little, but with the EGR disconnected, in time the intake will clean itself up.

I know what you are saying about with turbo modified. But that's with Gassers. Trust us, we have our diesels running better than ever. Just unplugging the EGR will make a difference and make the motor last longer.

The ultimate things you should do is,
1. Over ride the EGR.
2. Put in a cold air filter
3. Eliminate the DPF
4. Get a tuner.

Most of us have all those mods and we don't have any problems

1200 for a diesel is hot. Could damage the turbo.

67King

Well, after taking a look at the intake manifold, and how it appears to be integrated into the head, I decided to skip removing it because of the time. But, I did empty a bottle of carb/TB cleaner into the air horn, and got out a LOT of soot. Figure I am going to at least try the Seafoam.

Truck is running very good after that minimal work. Well, that's a relative term. It smoked a boatload initially (kind of like doing a Seafoam treatment!), but got better. It is no longer smoking, except under high load. Amazing the difference.

Unfortunately, the timing on all of this is just bad. In addition to the track day at Road Atlanta in a few weeks, I've got a boatload of stuff going on at work. That should calm down by September, so I should be free to start doing stuff. From what I gather, I can just unplug the EGR valve for now. I've got a MIG, so I can do a PDF, but that'll have to wait until September. Tuner's down the road - I'm putting a cage in the track car this Fall.

Funny that 1200 is hot. I've known guys who put Holsets on 2.3 Turbofords. I had an HX30 for a while, but never put it on, as it seemed pretty small. MOstly HY35's. I know of a few guys running them on 944's. I've always been concerned over the EGT's, which can get up to 1800. I went through a T3 turbine housing (albeit used) in about 10,000 miles by leaning it out to 12.0:1, and it was made for gasoline. Crazy.

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

inthenorth6.7

it's funny you call it a PDF, it reminds me of my dad, if he was unfamiliar with something he would call it the wrong name; i think he just did it to annoy me!
you've got some sweet wheels man!!! i'd probly give at least one nut and my first born for that GTO!

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2007,6.7,diamondback cover,the stock parts looked a little rusty so i replaced them,tbe with MBRP filter back, egr and egr cooler delete,black maxx, Lorenz 2.25., BF Xenon HID's, moto metal 961's wrapped in 35" general grabbers

67King

D'oh! I'm in the software business, now. Actually going through an acquisition. I've been turning every freakin' document our company has created into a PDF over the past couple of weeks, so I guess my mind reads DPF as PDF the same way one reads a typo like teh to be the.

I've had the GTO for 21 years now. Was my first car. It isn't going anywhere. Unfortunatley, it is in epoxy primer, but I'll get around to it. Hoping to build a detached 2 car garage (shop) next year, and start doing it up right. It has been put on the back burner by kids, a few moves, a couple of start up companies, etc. Life in general. But next year I'm hoping to give it the TLC it deserves!

Also, on the Seafoam thing. I got about 3/4 of a can in before the manifold pressure went positive. I'm not sure what the engine does to change, but I had been putting it through what I assume is a MAP port. It seems to ahve cleaned up a bit of the black smoke under heavy load as well. Still want to do more, but it certainly hasn't done anything to hurt (other than trigger a MIL).

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07 2500 Quad, 2WD, manual - bone stock
Classics: 67 GTO and 66 Bronco Roadster
Sports cars: 88 944 Turbo (track car) and 89 944 Turbo (S)
07 R320 CDI (kid hauler)

Polaraco

Most of us put it in through the temp sensor on the intake, before the turbo. Once you get that cleaned out, you may have it pretty much licked. That's a good thing. Glad it worked out.

The MIL could be because one of the sensors is coated now. Or there is something else wrong.

To get the trouble codes, flip the ignition key on and off 3 times within 10 seconds and get ready to write. There is a thread with all the codes in it to tell you where to look.

Oh a GM guy Huh. . . . Bahhhhhhhh LOL